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One might think open kitchens, then, would be a bulwark against a culture of abuse, but in Ganaway’s experience, it mostly just changes how and when that abuse is expressed. “If you’re a shitty chef, you’re going to be that way regardless,” she says. “I’ve had chefs who will literally come and stand right beside you on the line, and they’re saying the same shit that they would say in a closed kitchen.” A scene in The Bear reflects this dynamic; an executive chef in a quiet, high-end kitchen leans in close to rattle off insults only Carmy, his subordinate, can hear. The show makes it clear it’s as bad as getting screamed at in front of all your coworkers.
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